It‘s an alarming moment, no doubt familiar to millions of women: strands of hair collecting in the drain while showering, or coming out in clumps on a brush or comb.
Partings may seem wider. Ponytails begin to wither and that favourite hair tie suddenly needs an extra wrap.
Female hair loss is little talked about, despite being common: Roughly 55 per cent of women will be affected at some point in their lives, with the condition becoming more prevalent with age and fluctuating hormones.
Yet experts now warn it is on the rise in younger age groups, too. One recent study found that up to 39 per cent of women experience thinning by the age of 35.
While genetics plays a role, specialists also point to lifestyle factors for fuelling the problem.
And, speaking to the Daily Mail, one leading expert warns that there are a number of everyday habits that could be quietly making the problem worse – from how often you wash your hair to the way you style it.
‘Hair loss can feel confusing, overwhelming and deeply emotional,‘ says leading trichologist Hannah Gaboardi. ‘The good news is, there are steps you can take today to reverse thinning, if it’s already become a problem, or prevent it from ever becoming a problem.‘
So what are the hidden causes of hair loss… and what can be done about it?
Could skipping washes be making hair loss worse?
One of the most common causes of hair loss is poor scalp hygiene, says Ms Gaboardi, founder of The Hannah Gaboardi Clinic in London.
‘Many women I see in clinic who are suffering from hair loss tell me they‘re worried about washing their hair and even avoid it, because that‘s when they notice shedding the most,‘ she says. ‘They think that if they don‘t wash their hair, it will help slow the thinning, but this can actually do more harm than good.‘
Daily hair shedding is typical but thinning, a widening parting or a smaller ponytail can raise concerns
The science behind this is simple, but it is often distorted by pseudoscience or misleading claims by online influencers, she says.
Regular shampooing clears away oil, which prevents scalp inflammation, creating a healthy environment for hair growth.
Skipping washes allows sebum, sweat and dead skin to build up, which can encourage the overgrowth of malassezia yeast. This may trigger inflammation and scalp conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis, making it harder for healthy hair to grow.
Dermatologists and trichologists agree that trends such as ‘no-poo’ – skipping shampoo and washing with only water – as well as ‘hair training’, the idea that you can trick your hair into producing less oil by washing it less, are social media myths.
‘You can’t train your hair – it’s not a puppy,’ says Ms Gaboardi. ‘The way to have a healthy scalp is to cleanse it at least twice a week; two to three times a week is ideal.’
Another reason many women hesitate to wash their hair regularly is concern over shampoo ingredients – particularly sulphates, which are common foaming agents.
While sulphates can be drying or irritating for individuals with sensitive scalps, especially when used excessively, there is no scientific evidence to suggest that these ingredients cause permanent hair loss.
A review in Dermatologic Clinics emphasises that sulphates and other detergents primarily affect the outer layer of the hair shaft, the cuticle, and scalp barrier function, but not the hair follicle itself.
For people with inflammatory scalp conditions, it may be better to choose gentler, sulphate-free shampoos – particularly formulas designed for sensitive skin or thinning hair.
Could your hairdryer be damaging your hair?
As well as washing your hair regularly, drying your hair properly is important for avoiding hair loss, says Gaboardi.
She explains: ‘Your hair is at its most fragile state when wet, so how you dry and style your hair is very important.’
After stepping out of the shower, she recommends using a microfibre towel to blot and gently squeeze out excess water rather than vigorously rubbing your hair with a standard terrycloth towel.
Microfibre towels are designed to protect hair from breakage as the smooth texture minimises friction on wet strands.
One of the most common causes of hair loss is poor scalp hygiene, says trichologist Hannah Gaboardi
And while it sounds counterintuitive, blow-drying your hair could cause less damage than letting it dry naturally – provided your technique is correct.
This is because prolonged air-drying leaves hair in a swollen, fragile state for hours, weakening its internal protein structure and making strands highly susceptible to breakage.
However, Ms Gaboardi says that a poor hairdryer technique could also cause damage – and even lead to bald spots.
Applying extreme heat immediately after washing forces the water inside the hair shaft to expand, causing the outer cuticle to fracture and fray.
Prolonged exposure to high heat can also dry out the scalp, causing irritation or flaking, which in turn compromises the environment for healthy hair growth.
To protect your hair, Ms Gaboardi recommends applying a heat protector spray, which creates a barrier to reduce moisture loss and using a cooler setting.
Avoid allowing the dryer nozzle to touch the hair, as this can cause scorching. In extreme cases, direct scalp burning can cause scarring and permanent hair loss.
On top of heat, Hannah says she sees a lot of chemical damage from frequent colouring and bleaching, which can contribute to breakage and thinning. To combat this, she recommends in‑salon bonding treatments and regular trims to help limit the harm.
The hairstyles that can trigger bald patches
One of the most common types of hair loss in women is traction alopecia, which is caused by constant, repeated pulling on the hair roots.
This is often triggered by tight hairstyles that drag hair backwards in the same direction daily. This tugging often impacts some hairs more than others, leading to bald patches.
‘When you pull your hair back tightly, which we often see with ballerinas, it causes tension on the hairline. It starts to cause friction at the follicle, which creates inflammation that then can turn into scarring,’ says Ms Gaboardi.
This is particularly alarming for fans of the popular slicked-back style popularised by celebrities such as Bella Hadid, Hailey Bieber and the Kardashians.
Ponytails can strain hair follicles if they’re pulled very tightly, like this one on Bella Hadid
Any tight braid, bun or ponytail can trigger traction alopecia if worn daily. It’s wise to vary your hair styling by using looser ties or altering where you tie it.
Ms Gaboardi recommends that women who wear protective hairstyles such as cornrows should have a break between braids for the same reason.
The hair expert also warns against wearing tape hair extensions – pre-glued bands of hair that are pressed onto your roots – for longer than the recommended six to eight weeks.
This is because as your natural hair grows, the tapes slide down, which pulls on the roots, causes severe tangles at the scalp and can lead to permanent hair breakage and traction alopecia.
‘Keeping good maintenance within your hair extensions is ideal – and if you can avoid hair extensions and use clip-ins, that’s even better for your hair,’ she says.
The surprising link between weight loss and hair shedding
Ms Gaboardi says she is seeing a growing pattern of hair shedding in women taking GLP‑1 weight‑loss drugs such as Ozempic.
‘In many cases, it’s not the drug itself; it’s the shock weight loss and the fact that women aren’t eating very much,’ she says.
‘When you’re not getting enough nutrients, especially iron, it pushes the hair into a shedding phase and that’s when it starts to fall out and thin,’ she explains.
The body needs iron to make haemoglobin and myoglobin, proteins that carry and store oxygen in the blood and muscles. Without enough, anaemia – a lack of healthy red blood cells – can occur. This means less oxygen is delivered around the body, including to the scalp and hair follicles.
Without sufficient oxygen, hair growth halts, and thinning can occur.
Ms Gaboardi urges anyone worried about hair loss on GLP‑1s or after a crash diet to have a blood test to check for deficiencies rather than blindly buying supplements.
She is particularly sceptical of hair supplements containing biotin: unless you’re genuinely deficient, there’s no strong evidence it works.
‘I always tell women to get a proper blood test – ferritin, thyroid, vitamin D, folate – rather than just throwing supplements at the problem.’
She also sees many women with prolonged shedding after pregnancy and extended breastfeeding who’ve never had basic bloods checked for iron, thyroid and vitamin D, meaning underlying deficiencies quietly drive ongoing hair loss.
Most people can get sufficient vitamins and minerals to maintain their hair through their diet, the expert says.
This means eating red meat, alongside spinach tossed in lemon juice – to help boost iron absorption – and healthy fats such as salmon and pumpkin seeds.
While no trim or mask can reverse genetic hair loss, Ms Gaboardi recommends cutting dead ends every 12 weeks so new growth has something healthy to grow into and using professional treatments, like in-salon masks and scalp-steaming, to help protect the hair you have and prevent further loss.
